South Sea Pearls – An Essential Guide

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Loved for their large sizes and deep, glowing, satiny lustre, South Sea pearls are the crème de la crème of cultured pearls. With their alluring natural colours, white and gold, and their thick nacre, these pearls are the very definition of luxury. And they are rare!

What are South Sea Pearls?

South Sea pearls are saltwater pearls that grow in the Pinctada maxima oyster. This is the largest pearl-producing oyster in the world and at maturity can be as large as a dinner plate (up to 30 cm in diameter). Hence, South Sea pearls are larger than most other cultured pearls.

The Pinctada maxima oyster lives in the warm waters of the South China Sea. It is also found in the waters of the Indian Ocean where they touch the northern Australian shores.

Types of South Sea Pearls

There are two types of South Sea Pearls – White South Sea Pearls and Golden South Sea Pearls.

White South Sea Pearls

White South Sea pearls come from the silver-lipped Pinctada maxima oyster. These pearls are farmed in northern Australia, Indonesia, the Philippines and Myanmar.

White South Seas come in a variety of primary or body colours including white, blue-white, silvery white and ivory white. They also exhibit a range of overtone colours including silver, blue, aquamarine, ivory, cream and the much coveted pink or blush-rose.

Golden South Sea Pearls

Golden South Sea pearls come from the golden-lipped Pinctada maxima oyster. These pearls come in a range of different body colours including pale yellow, light gold, champagne, medium gold and the much loved deep gold.

While these pearls are farmed in Indonesia, Myanmar and Australia, the most vibrantly hued golden South Sea pearls come from the Philippines.

Golden South Sea pearls display a host of different and very attractive overtone colours including gold, bronze, and green. As a result of innovation in pearl culturing, some golden South Sea pearls recently harvested in Myanmar display a mix of overtone colours, similar to the rainbow overtones displayed by some Tahitian pearls. These exceptional pearls are called Rainbow Gold South Sea pearls.

How are South Sea Pearls Cultivated?

South Sea pearls are saltwater pearls that are cultivated in offshore saltwater environments. South Sea pearls farms in Australia are located in the sea waters along the large Australian bays. In the Philippines, pearl farms are located in offshore coves around Palawan. Indonesian South Sea pearl farms are mainly located around Bali and Lombok. South Sea pearl farms in Myanmar are located mainly in the Mergui Archipelago.

Pearl Culturing

South Sea pearls are bead-nucleated cultured pearls. It takes about 3.5 to 4 years for an oyster to be mature enough to be grafted in order to produce a South Sea pearl. Up until then, the oysters are allowed to grow underwater on oyster nets. Upon maturity, healthy oysters are selected for the grafting process.

The South Sea pearl grafting process involves the surgical insertion of a mother-of-pearl bead and a tiny sliver of mantle tissue (from a donor oyster) into a pearl-producing oyster. Grafting is a specialized process. Only trained technicians can successfully perform this operation, that is, without killing the oyster. Once grafted, the oysters are again returned to the sea.

The oyster then starts to deposit a thin layer of nacre around the bead. This it does to protect itself, as it considers the bead to be an irritant. Overtime, the oyster completely covers the bead nucleus with nacre. After 2 to 3 years, a glowing South Sea pearl is harvested from the oyster. What’s more, each oyster produces only one pearl at a time. As a result, not only are South Sea pearls are beautiful, they are rare and therefore expensive.

Keshi – A Special Category

Keshi pearls are happy accidents of nature. These pearls are formed inside a cultivated oyster as a result of the pearl culturing process, but don’t have a solid bead nucleus inside them. They are similar to natural pearls but cannot be described as such, because their formation is the result of the pearl culturing process.

South Sea Keshis have intense lustre and are highly sought after for their beauty. Their size usually ranges from 2mm – 8mm but, very rarely, it is possible to find some pearls that are larger.

Value Factors for South Sea Pearls

Just like other cultured pearls, South Seas also have several different value factors that help determine their quality and price.

Size

One of the largest cultured pearls, South Seas are loved for their large sizes. While South Sea pearls usually come in sizes between 9mm – 14mm, it is possible to find South Sea pearls that are larger than 20mm. Some baroque South Sea pearls can even measure up to 28mm!

Some South Sea pearls are smaller than 9mm. But sizes as small as 6mm – 7mm are rare in these pearls.

Lustre

Lustre is the way light reflects off the surface of a pearl (reflection) as well as from just under the surface (refraction). The more light that reflects and refracts off a pearl, the brighter it shines. Highly lustrous pearls reflect and refract light so brilliantly, they not only have a shiny surface but also seem to glow from within.

South Seas are loved for their rich and luxurious lustre. The lustre quality is softer than the mirror-like lustre of Akoya pearls but deeper and brighter than the lustre of Freshwater pearls.

Top quality South Sea pearls have a satiny sheen that is hard to find in any other cultured pearl. they also have a distinctive glow. Highly lustrous South Sea pearls are more beautiful and therefore more valuable when compared to pearls with dim lustre.

Colour

Colour is an important factor in determining the value of South Sea pearls. But this value factor is different for the two types of South Sea pearls.

For white South Sea pearls, the most common colours are white, cream and silver. However, it’s their overtones that set one pearl apart from the others. Pink or blush overtones, especially on silvery-white pearls are the epitome of beauty in these pearls. White South Seas with blue and aquamarine overtones are also much sought after.

With gold pearls, as with most other coloured cultured pearls, the deeper and more vibrant the colour, the more valuable the pearl. Therefore, darker gold South Seas are more valuable than light gold or pale gold ones. The most valuable colour in golden South Sea pearls is referred to as “24 karat” because of its similarity to the colour of pure, 24k gold.

But the value attached to colour also depends on the personal preferences of the jewellery wearer. Some people may prefer gold over white or vice versa.

Even within the two colours, white and gold, individual tastes may come into play. Some jewellery lovers may prefer the cool charm of silvery white South Seas, while others are drawn to the soft warmth of ivory hues.

Similarly, some jewellery lovers find the 24k gold colour irresistible while others prefer the demure charm of light gold or champagne gold pearls.

Surface Quality

Smooth surface quality is a hallmark of top quality pearls, both natural and cultured. Surface quality therefore is an important indicator of the value of a pearl.

A cultured South Sea pearl with a smooth, blemish-free surface is beautiful to look at, and therefore more valuable. Pearls with visible blemishes such as pits, grooves and scratches are less attractive and therefore less valuable.  

Shape

South Sea pearls come in several different shapes.

Round : A spherically round South Sea pearl is a rare find and therefore very valuable.

Off-Round : These pearls may appear spherical but are not perfectly round.

Oval : These pearls have a narrower bottom and top and appear oval.

Button : A button-shaped pearl has a round or dome-shaped top and a flat or slightly curved bottom.  

Drop : After perfectly symmetrical round, symmetrical drop is the rarest shape in South Sea pearls. Drop shaped pearls are narrower at the top and wider at the bottom, giving them a classic teardrop or water-drop shape.

Baroque : Baroque is one of the most common shapes to be found in South Sea pearls. Baroques may be symmetrical or they may have an organic, free-form, asymmetrical shapes.

Circlé : Circlé pearls come under the baroque shape category. These pearls have one or more grooves circling the pearls and this distinctive feature adds to their uniqueness and beauty.

Nacre Thickness

Good quality South Sea pearls are allowed to grow in their oyster for over two years. Over this period, the oyster continues to cover the bead with many layers of nacre. Thick nacre results in more beautiful, lustrous and durable pearls.

South Seas, both white and gold, have the thickest nacre among all cultured saltwater pearls. Good quality South Sea pearls have nacre which can measure between 2mm and 4mm (or even thicker).

This thick nacre makes for very smooth surfaced pearls that have great lustre and appear vivid and shiny. By comparison, South Sea pearls with thin nacre will be dull, unattractive and less durable. These pearls will have a lifeless appearance and their surface will chip easily, making them even less attractive.

Matching

Matching becomes important when pearls are set in jewellery, especially necklaces, bracelets and earrings. Well matched pearl jewellery pieces are always more valuable than mixed colour ones.

This is because it takes time to match cultured pearls for their lustre, body colour, overtones and size. Sometimes, it may take many pearl harvests for a single strand of top quality South Sea pearl necklace to be created. This is true for both white and golden South Sea pearls. Well matched, round, lustrous, top quality South Sea pearl necklaces can retail for hundreds of thousands of dollars!

Tips for Buying South Sea Pearls

South Sea pearls are beautiful and many jewellery lovers aspire to make them a part of their jewellery collection. But these are expensive pearls and buying them requires doing some research and understanding why you want to buy these pearls.

• First, figure out which piece of jewellery you would like to purchase.  Also, set your budget before your purchase. With a clear budget in mind you will be better able to buy the South Sea pearl jewellery that suits your wallet and your jewellery wishes.
• Since South Seas are expensive, it is best to buy them from reputable jewellery brands, jewellery designers and pearl specialists. Reputable sellers will also have a larger selection of South Sea jewellery pieces to choose from and you will get authentic South Sea pearl jewellery instead of fake pearls.
• Draw a list of 3–5 reputable brands and pearl jewellers and start  your research about the price of South Sea pearls. Email them with your questions about quality, prices and jewellery pieces. Most reputable brands and pearl specialists will be very professional in their communication and will gladly share prices and other details of the South Sea pearl jewellery they have available.
• Ask the sellers about the quality of pearls they have available and if they use any pearl grading system. Examine the pearls (if shopping online, ask for videos and photos taken in natural light with good zoom). Assess the pearls yourself, based on the seven value factors for South Sea pearls.
• If some South Sea pearl pieces are being marketed as a “steal” or offered at significantly discounted prices by an unfamiliar jewellery brand, proceed with caution! Be sure to conduct your own research to avoid buying “Cheap South Sea Pearls” and then discovering that they are fake or freshwater pearls.

Why are South Sea Pearls so Expensive?

South Sea pearls are the most expensive cultured pearls in the world. But there are several reasons for this.

First, the Pinctada maxima oyster produces only one pearl at a time, and it can take up to 5 years, from birth, for an oyster to produce a pearl. Second, every harvest produces only a small percentage of good quality pearls. For instance, a typical harvest of South Sea pearls will yield between 10% to 30% round to near round pearls. Thus, gem quality and top quality South Sea pearls rare. Which makes them more expensive as compared to other cultured pearls.

But the good news is that these pearls retain their value especially if they are top quality and purchased from renowned pearl jewellery brands.

Caring for your South Sea Pearls

Even though South Sea pearls are loved for their thick nacre, they are an organic gem and can be damaged if handled and stored carelessly. Here are some tips on how to take care of your South Sea pearls:

1. Always put on your South Sea pearl jewellery after applying makeup, hair spray and perfume, and remember to take it off before removing your makeup.
2. To avoid chemicals, dirt and oils from collecting on the surface of your pearls and making them dull (and discoloured in the long run) remember to regularly wipe your pearl jewellery with a clean, very slightly damp cotton cloth.
3. Never wear you South Sea pearl jewellery when swimming in the pool or taking a shower.
4. Always store your South Sea pearl jewellery in soft-cloth pouches. The surface of the pearls can get scratched easily, so make sure that the pearls are not stored in the same pouch as metallic jewellery with sharp edges. Scratched and blemished pearls look dull and lifeless, which is something you would not want for your valuable and expensive South Sea pearls.
5. Don’t store your pearls in air-tight lockers and plastic boxes for long periods of time. Pearls are organic gems that grow in water, Hence they love a little moisture. The lack of moisture in air-tight containers damages pearls, sometimes irrecoverably.

However, the best way to take care of your South Sea pearl jewellery is to wear it often. The oils from your skin will make your pearls shine even more. And wearing your favourite pearls will add an elegant glow to your overall look!

Featured Image: Selection of White South Sea Pearls, Paspaley