Van Cleef & Arpels has long been captivated by Egyptian history. Howard Carter’s discovery of Tutankhamen’s tomb and its treasures in 1922 opened a transformative new chapter for the Maison’s design repertoire.
The Fascinating Egypt high jewellery collection is the Maison’s latest tribute to Egyptomania, boasting some 180 figurative and abstract pieces that revisit the ancient Egypt culture and evoke the artistic heritage of that once mighty civilization.
“For many years, the Maison Van Cleef & Arpels, so inspired by Egypt in the 1920s, has wished to prolong the story and present its own vision of this ancient heritage,” notes Catherine Renier, President and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels. Thus, to fully understand the beauty and breadth of the collection, it needs to be appreciated as a saga and not simply a selection of exquisite jewels.
Fascinating Egypt – A Reimagining of Ancient Symbols
The collection showcases modern interpretations of ancient Egyptian symbols through gems and craftsmanship. These symbols include the lotus flower, papyrus, priests, pharaonic figures and deities as well as stylized depictions of everyday life.
Fleur de lotus Mystérieuse
The Fleur de lotus Mystérieuse clip is a dazzling jewelled representation of the iconic floral motif of ancient Egypt. Crafted in yellow and rose gold, the clip depicts three lotus flowers in profile, each featuring different combinations of rubies and diamonds. Baguette- and calibré-cut rubies, set in Van Cleef & Arpels’ traditional Mystery Setting, pair with round and baguette-cut diamonds, to create a striking piece of jewellery.
While the Maison’s patented mystery setting is all about hiding the gold, in favour of the gems, in this clip, the yellow and rose gold also take centre stage. Alternating between textured gold on the flowers and highly polished gold on the corollas and stems of the flowers, and the interlacing of the flower stems, further highlights the gold (and goldsmithing). As a result, the precious metal shines alongside the sparkle of diamonds and the well-matched and deeply saturated hues of the rubies. This piece takes an ancient symbol and imbues it with vivacity underscored by a modern design aesthetic.
Vénus égyptienne
The Vénus égyptienne clip pays homage to Hathor, the goddess of love, beauty and music. The clip faithfully represents the golden solar disk and cow horn crown of Hathor. The goddess’ face is 1.51 D VVS1 round diamond, while two white gold and diamond falcons perch on her shoulders. This figurative and interpretive piece showcases the beauty and majesty of Hathor.
But that’s not all.
The clip also features a half-circle of calibré-cut turquoise, deep blue and pyrite-flecked lapis lazuli and yellow gold and diamonds. The remarkable marquetry work combines the turquoise, lapis lazuli, gold and diamonds in stunning graduation. The different sections, each precisely hand-cut, fit together seamlessly. Dotted with yellow gold studs, the piece is a study in fine details, superb craftsmanship and immense creativity.
Magie de rubis
The Magie de rubis earrings have been inspired by representation of goddess Isis in ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs. The hero gemstones are the matched pair of deep red, oval Mozambique rubies, weighing 2.18 and 2.07 carats. Crafted in yellow gold, the earrings are further embellished with emeralds and diamonds.
The allure of these earrings also lies in their design. There are shades of Egyptomania in the papyrus-inspired yellow-gold surmounts. But hints of the Art Deco style can also be discerned, particularly in the alluring use of baguette-cut diamonds. These not only add length to these earrings but also allow the luminous red of the Mozambique rubies to take centre-stage.
Standout Pieces of the Fascinating Egypt Collection
Each of the 180 creations in the collection is remarkable in its own way, with its own unique character and appeal. Yet some pieces stand out for their distinctive designs, exceptional craftsmanship as well as their superb selection of gemstones.
Paysage royal bracelet
With its finely detailed composition and vivid imagery, the Paysage royal bracelet is as close as you can get to an ancient Egyptian fresco brought to life with gold and gemstones. However, this completely flexible bracelet finds its design inspiration in the Egyptian-style bracelets produced by Van Cleef & Arpels in the 1920s.
The bracelet has been crafted in yellow and white gold and features emeralds, rubies, blue and pink sapphires, onyx and diamonds. On the visible side, the fully articulated bracelet features the top half of a pharaoh’s face, rendered in textured yellow gold. The pharaonic nemes, or striped linen headcloth, is represented by alternating curved stripes of blue sapphires and emeralds, while his onyx eyes are lined with sapphires and diamonds.
On the reverse of the bracelets, gold openwork allows light to pass through and add sparkle and luminosity to the coloured gems.
The bracelet seamlessly bridges the gap between jewelled adornment and art, its details as evocative as they are wondrous.
Muse éternelle clip
Crafted in yellow and white gold and embellished with diamonds, the Muse éternelle clip pays tribute to one of the most well-known queens of ancient Egypt, Cleopatra. This clip continues the Maison’s tradition, established in the early 1940s, of depicting feminine figures in high jewellery brooches, with their faces represented by rose-cut diamonds.
The Muse éternelle depicts Cleopatra in a regal and majestic pose. In her right hand, she holds the Ankh cross, which symbolizes life, while in her left hand she holds her sceptre, representing her divine authority. It is details such as these that elevate the piece beyond just a jewelled adornment.
From her headdress to her shoes, the white gold figure of the Muse éternelle is draped in garments and ornaments of yellow gold, accented further with diamonds. Ribbons of yellow gold, each culminating in a diamond, stream down her garment and add to her splendour.
Beauté légendaire necklace
The Beauté légendaire necklace is a piece that simply stops you in your tracks. You cannot help but go back to it again and again, just to admire its beauty, details and craftsmanship.
The necklace is the Maison’s own graphic interpretation of the spectacular breastplates worn by ancient Egyptian royalty and their depictions on cinema screens and theatre stages.
At the centre of the necklace sits a 10.02-carat fancy vivid yellow cushion-cut diamond, with brilliant-cut style faceting. This focal point of the piece gives the necklace a solar gleam, as if the rays of the sun were emanating from it. It is held in place by a six-pronged bezel which further enhances its captivating glitter.
The necklace is entirely flexible. Paved with round diamonds of increasing dimensions and criss-crossed by lines of polished yellow gold which represent garlands, the symmetry of the design also showcases its intricacy and the precise craftsmanship behind it.
As the perfect finishing touch, the e clasp is hidden beneath a lotus flower in white gold, yellow gold and sapphires, in homage to ancient Egypt, as imagined by Van Cleef & Arpels.
The Marriage of Design, Craftsmanship, Colours and Brand Storytelling
What makes Fascinating Egypt particularly unique is the way colour, design and craftsmanship become part of the collection’s brand storytelling.
The ancient Egyptian motifs and the Maison’s own historic designs archives sparked the inspiration for the collection. In doing so, they also provided an opportunity to explore Van Cleef & Arpels’ rich heritage of jewellery design and craftsmanship.
For instance, the Muse éternelle clip is a reimagining of the Maison’s feminine figure jewels, seen through the lens of an ancient civilization while in the Fleur de lotus Mystérieuse clip, the lotus flower showcases the Maison’s renowned, patented Mystery Setting.
One look at the collection is enough to mesmerise you with the range and depth of colour that accentuate the pieces. This was a considered choice by the Maison’s Stones Department.
Rubies, sapphires, emeralds, rubellites, tourmalines have been paired with lapis lazuli, turquoise and quartz, to create multicoloured yet harmonious colour compositions. What’s more, these colours are as much a part of the storytelling as are the designs and motifs.
However, the real significance of the collection is in how it reinforces the Maison’s own story and identity. Ancient Egypt is not simply the theme of the collection. Instead, it brings the Van Cleef & Arpels’ history into the present. By revisiting the Egypt-inspired pieces on the 1920s, shows a continuation of a story that began a hundred years ago though a new and equally compelling chapter, Fascinating Egypt.
The 180 pieces have been crafted in the Maison’s distinctive design and savoir faire vocabulary, something the brand has been developing since its inception in 1906. While inspired by the past, Fascinating Egypt is consciously contemporary, underscoring the fact that the Maison continues to generate new ideas, even if the inspiration comes from its own history.
Thus, the wearer is not simply adorning themselves with an exquisite piece of high jewellery. They are being invited to become part of the Maison’s history and ongoing story.
Featured Image: Beauté légendaire necklace, Fascinating Egypt High Jewellery Collecton
