Tahitian Pearls – A Short Guide

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Dark and mysterious, Tahitian pearls embody the definition of luxury. A relatively new addition to the world of cultured pearls, Tahitian pearls burst upon the jewellery stage in the 1970s. With their mystique and deep, satiny lustre, these “black” pearls have forever changed the way jewellery lovers think of pearls.

The one thing that really sets these pearls apart from other cultured pearls is their colour. Tahitians are the only naturally black pearls (all other “black” pearls are colour treated). Even so, Tahitian pearls come in a variety of colours, besides black, making them some of the most colourful pearls.

What Are Tahitian Pearls?

Tahitian pearls are saltwater pearls that come from the black-lipped Pinctada margaritifera cumingii oyster. This oyster grows in the South Pacific region, especially in the lagoons and islands around French Polynesia, Micronesia, and the Cook Islands. However, there are also some Tahitian pearl farms in Indonesia.

Cultured Tahitian Pearls

Most of the Tahitian pearls found in the jewellery market today are cultured pearls. Cultured pearls are grown at pearl farms and their creation is the result of direct human intervention.

Tahitian pearls are bead-nucleated cultured pearls. To grow a Tahitian pearl, a mother-of-pearl bead and a small sliver of mantle-tissue (from a donor oyster) are introduced into a pearl-forming Pinctada margaritifera oyster. The cultivated oysters are then left in water. Over time, the oyster covers the bead in layers of nacre. In time, a Tahitian pearl is formed.

It takes about 2.5 to 3 years for a dark and alluring Tahitian pearl to be harvested from a cultivated oyster. Since one oyster can only produce one Tahitian pearl at a time, these pearls are rare. This is especially true when compared to Freshwater pearls (one Freshwater mollusc can produce up to 30 cultured pearls at a time).

Natural Tahitian Pearls

Natural Tahitian pearls are extremely rare. Because of this, they are also extremely expensive. Today, they are only found as part of some royal jewellery collections and in the collections of avid jewellery collectors and connoisseurs.

History of Tahitian Cultured Pearls

Soon after Kokichi Mikimoto had successfully cultured Akoya pearls, he turned his attention to Tahitian pearls. He began experimenting with the Pinctada margaritifera oyster in the early 1900s with a view to producing cultured black pearls.

However, the first Tahitian pearl farm was established in 1966 in French Polynesia by Jacques and Hubert Rosenthal, and the first cultured “black” pearl harvest took place in 1972. By the mid-1970s Tahitian pearls had not only entered the jewellery world, they were a sensation, thanks to the efforts of Salvador Assael, the founder of Assael.

As the story goes, in 1978, Assael offered 18 necklace strands of dark Tahitian pearls to his friend, legendary American jeweller Harry Winston. Winston placed the most beautiful of these necklace strands in his Fifth Avenue store window.

Pretty soon, jewellery lovers were flocking in large numbers to see these gorgeous pearls. He priced the strands at $1 million USD, and within a short period of time, sold every one of them!

Around the same time, in 1973, Robert Wan also set up his Tahitian pearl farm in French Polynesia. Very soon, Wan was harvesting  large quantities of Tahitian pearls, making these dark and mysterious pearls even more popular. It is no wonder that Robert Wan and Tahitian pearls have almost become synonymous in the jewellery market.

Today, Tahitian pearls are considered luxury pearls. They are still rare and gem-quality Tahitian pearls are coveted by jewellery lovers, designers and collectors alike!

Why Are Tahitian Pearls Black?

Tahitian pearls are cultivated in the black lipped Pinctada margaritifera oyster. The nacre produced by this oyster is darkly pigmented with tones such as brown, grey and black. This is unlike white pearls where the layers of nacre are colourless or very light beige.

Tahitian Pearl Colours

Tahitian pearls come in a multitude of colours so it is a little misleading to call them “black pearls.” To understand Tahitian pearl colours it is important to know that Tahitian pearl colours are a combination of their body colour and their overtones. 

Body Colours

The result of having pigmented nacre is that Tahitian pearls can have a range of different body colours including grey, charcoal, and black. (Very rarely, Tahitian pearls can have silvery white and gold body colours as well.)

Secondary or Overtone Colours

Even though most people think of Tahitian pearls as black or grey pearls, they are in fact very colourful cultured pearls. This is because of the dazzling variety of overtones or secondary colours these pearls can exhibit.

Overtones are secondary colours that skim on the surface of a pearl giving it another colour dimension. Tahitian pearls can exhibit an attractive variety of secondary colour which may include cherry or dark pink, green, green-cherry, yellow, gold, brown, pistachio, blue, turquoise, aubergine and the much coveted peacock.

So, with three different body colours and a host of multicoloured overtones, Tahitian pearls are very colourful pearls indeed.

This makes them an ideal choice for jewellery lovers because it is hard to find a Tahitian pearl colour that will not suit and complement your skin tone.

Tahitian Pearl Sizes

Tahitian pearls are known for their size. Because they are nucleated with a large mother-of-pearl bead, Tahitian pearls are some of the largest cultured pearls. This is especially true when compared to Akoya pearls and tissue-nucleated Freshwater pearls.

Most Tahitian pearls are at least 8 mm in size, with an average size of 9 mm to 13 mm. Even so, pearls measuring above 15 mm or between 5 mm and 6 mm can be found. But these sizes are very not very common.

The popular size for Tahitian pearls is between 9 mm and 12 mm.

Tahitian Pearl Shapes

Tahitian pearls come in many different shapes, from round to baroque. The different shapes of Tahitian pearls include the following:

Perfectly and Symmetrically Round (these pearls are perfectly round. Round Tahitian pearls are usually a very small percentage of each harvest, making them very rare)

Semi Round (these pearls may appear round but are not symmetrically round, because of the presence of a slightly flat or elongated surface)

Symmetrical Baroque Drop-Shaped (these pearls have an elongated shape, similar to that of a drop of water; this shape makes them ideal for drop earrings)

Circlé (these pearls may be roundish or drop shaped and have rings or grooves that circle them, adding an alluring point of interest)

Baroque and Organic ( these pearls have an asymmetric, free form shape, making them unique and a favourite of jewellery designers who use the organic shapes to create unusual jewellery pieces)

Tahitian Keshi Pearls

Keshi pearls are formed in a cultured pearl oyster as an unintentional result of pearl cultivation. They are formed away from the bead or mantle tissue inserted in a cultured  pearl oyster. They grow in the same way as natural pearls but because they are harvested from a cultured pearl oyster, they cannot be classified as natural pearls.  

Tahitian keshi pearls are formed with layers and layers of pure nacre. As a result, they are very lustrous and shiny. Because they don’t have a round bead to guide their shape, Tahitian keshi pearls are very organic baroque in shape.

In size, they are small, usually measuring between 2 mm – 8 mm at the widest point.

Tahitian Pearl Quality Factors

Just like other cultured pearls, Tahitians are also valued on seven different factors, which include the following:

Lustre – Of all the pearl value factors, lustre is perhaps the most important. Top quality Tahitian pearls are prized for their shiny, bright, almost metallic lustre which has a mirror-like quality. High lustre Tahitian pearls will be more valuable than low lustre, dull ones which show out of focus, fuzzy reflections. 

Size – Tahitian pearls are one of the larger cultured pearls, with popular sizes between 9mm and 12 mm. But it is possible to find Tahitian pearls measuring 15mm and upwards. As with other pearls, larger Tahitian pearls will be more valuable as compared to smaller ones.

Shape – The perfect shape for Tahitian pearls is symmetrical and perfectly round. Round pearls will always be more valuable than off-round or semi-round Tahitians. However, these days many jewellery wearers are turning to baroque pearls, because of their off-the-beaten path shapes and characteristics.  Circlé baroque pearls as well as baroque pearls with growth features like knobs and tips are being used in fine jewellery. Many organic, free-form baroque shapes are also gaining popularity. This is because such pearls are unique and when set in jewellery, help create truly one-of-a-kind pieces.

Colour – Tahitian pearls are loved for their dark and attractive colours. A pearl with distinct overtones or secondary colours will always be coveted. Among Tahitian pearl colours, one of the most popular are the Peacock Tahitians, with their alluring mix of green, blue, turquoise and pink. Pistachio Green, Bronze and Chocolate are three very attractive but rare colours, which makes them pricier as compared to other colours. (However, colour is a personal choice and the most valuable colour for you is the one that YOU are most attracted to.)

Surface Quality – A Tahitian cultured pearl with a clean, smooth and blemish free surface will always be more valuable than on with pits, grooves, pin pricks (these are tiny indentations on a pearl’s surface, almost as if the surface of the pearl was pricked with a sharp needle) and scratches.

Nacre Thickness – This is another important factor to consider. It is closely linked to lustre quality. Pearls with thick nacre are more lustrous and shinier, making them more attractive and valuable. By contrast, those with thin nacre have a dull and chalky appearance. Such pearls chip easily and are not very durable. Sometimes, if the nacre is very thin, it may be possible to see the bead nucleus inside the pearl from certain angles. As a result, pearls with thin nacre are neither very beautiful, not very valuable.¹

Matching – Matching becomes important for necklaces, earrings and bracelets. Well matched pieces of jewellery are more valuable and expensive. Finding perfectly matched Tahitian pearls may take years, especially for necklaces and bracelets. ( But there is also a trend of wearing mismatched earrings or multicoloured pearl necklaces and bracelets, which may look very attractive.)

Tahitian Pearl Grading

While there is no standardized pearl grading system, in the case of Tahitian cultured pearls two separate scales are used to determine their grade and value.

The first is the Tahitian Pearl Grading system which runs from A to D. In this system, A denotes top quality while D is given to lower quality pearls.

The second system grades pearls on a scale of AAAA to A. In this scale, AAAA represents top quality Tahitian pearls while A is given to lower quality pearls.

Both systems can be easily equated.

Are Tahitian Pearls Valuable?

Yes, Tahitian pearls are valuable. Because they are rare, it also makes them expensive. A gem or top quality cultured Tahitian pearl necklace, for instance, can sell for hundreds of thousands of dollars. Many gem quality pearl jewellery pieces retain their value over time.

But value is not measured with price alone. Top quality Tahitian pearl jewellery, if cared for properly, can be worn and enjoyed over generations.  

Tahitian Pearl Buying Tips

Many jewellery lovers find themselves overwhelmed by the thought of buying Tahitian pearls. But buying these dark and alluring pearls does not have to be mind boggling if you follow a few simple tips.

1. Set your budget before your purchase. With a clear budget in mind you will be better able to buy the Tahitian cultured pearls that suit your style and your wallet.
2. Always buy Tahitian pearl jewellery from reputable jewellery brands and pearl specialists. This is an expensive jewellery purchase, so make sure you are buying your Tahitians from brands or sellers who are trustworthy and have good reputations. In that way you will be sure to get real Tahitian pearls instead of black dyed Freshwater pearls or fake pearls, which some untrustworthy seller may try to pass off as Tahitians.
3. Do your research about the price of Tahitian cultured pearls from a selection of reputable brands and sellers. Email them if need be. Reputable brands and pearl specialists are very professional. They are also candid about sharing prices and other details of the Tahitian cultured pearl jewellery pieces you want to buy.
4. Ask the seller about the grade of the Tahitian pearls if they are using one of the pearl grading systems. Assess the pearls yourself, based on the seven value factors above.
5. If a piece of Tahitian pearl jewellery is being offered as a “steal” or at deeply discounted prices by unknown or little known jewellery brands or on “discount” websites, please  BEWARE! Do your own due diligence because such “too good to be true” pearl purchases may cause you grief later on when you find out that the pearls were fake or dyed Freshwater pearls.

Taking Care of Your Tahitian Pearls

Just like all other pearls, your Tahitians need a lot of TLC so that they continue to glow. Here are some tips to follow.

• Last on, First off: Always put on your Tahitian pearl jewellery after putting on your make-up, perfume and hairspray. The chemicals in these products may dull your pearls. Also, take them off before removing your make up.
• Avoid wearing your Tahitian cultured pearl necklaces when going to bed
• Regularly wipe your pearl jewellery with a clean, very slightly damp cotton cloth to keep the surface of the pearls clean. Over time, dirt, oils, sweat and chemicals can accumulate on the pearl surfaces, making them dull.
• Do not wear your Tahitians when swimming or taking a shower. The chemicals in the pool as well as those in shampoos and soaps may damage the lustre of the pearls.
• Store your Tahitian cultured pearls in separate soft-cloth pouches, away from the sharp edges and hard contours of metallic jewellery and faceted gemstones. The surface of the pearls can easily get scratched, making them dull and blemished.
• Avoid storing your pearls in air-tight lockers and boxes for long periods of time. Pearls have almost 2% water content. The lack of moisture in air tight containers and boxes can cause the pearls to become brittle and discoloured.
•  Wear your Tahitians regularly. This will keep your pearls looking beautiful because the oils from your skin will transfer to the surface of the pearls, making them shine even more.

Why Choose Cultured Tahitian Pearls?

Cultured Tahitian pearls have mesmerized jewellery lovers for decades. With their large sizes and satiny lustre, it is hard not to fall under the spell of these iridescent gems. In addition, because of the wide range of body and overtone colours available, Tahitians look great on all skin tones. While they are expensive, a beautiful piece of Tahitian pearl jewellery that is cared for with love, will continue giving joy to its wearers over generations.

Featured Image: Mikimoto Sea Urchin High Jewellery Brooch with Black South Sea (Tahitian) Pearl, Black Mother-of-Pearl, and Diamonds.

1. Since 1998, the government of French Polynesia requires that all Tahitian cultured pearls produced in the country meet the requirement of 0.8mm minimum nacre thickness over the entire body of the pearl, to be eligible for export. Pearls that do not meet this requirement are destroyed. ↩︎