Pearls in a Labyrinth

Perspectives De Chaumet, the Labyrinthe Chapter

Perspectives de Chaumet, the latest High Jewellery offering by Chaumet is a jewelled homage to architecture, an enduring theme for the Maison. Divided into six neat chapters, this collection is as visually arresting as it is varied.

However, it is the Labyrinthe Chapter which speaks to me, in volumes, not least because of its brilliant use of pearls and mother-of-pearl. It is these pearl pieces which have captivated my imagination. There are angles and arcs, incredible contrasts in colours and materials and the beauty of abstract design made real. A glowing, vibrant golden South Sea pearl nestled in a surround of onyx and exotic black mother-of-pearl; what could easily have been an all monochromatic colour palette of white mother-of-pearl, white diamonds and white South Sea pearls is elevated in a setting of rich rose gold.

Taking its inspiration from “Russian constructivism or Italian futurism” this chapter draws upon many diverse tendrils of architectural styles, with one eye at the future and one firmly looking to the past. To me these pieces bring up images of formal garden mazes, beguiling puzzles, with unexpected turns and secret passages, in neatly laid out hedges of boxwood. Similarly, these pieces evoke a feeling of discovery, among the gems, metal and exquisite craftsmanship, of a design aesthetic that is both rooted in the past but also a part of an as yet unknown surrealist future!

There is surprise and enchantment in the Labyrinthe Chapter of Chaumet’s Perspectives 2020 High Jewellery Collection. While the entire chapter is worth exploring, I find the pearl jewellery pieces to be the most alluring. The lustre, sparkle and gleam enhance the symmetry and disruption of these pieces in the most unforgettable way!

Featured Image: Labyrinthe Mismatch Earrings with White and Golden South Sea Pearl, Mother-of-Pearl and Diamonds, Set in 18K Rose Gold

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