Fiji pearls are one of the rarest and most alluring cultured pearls in the world. Cultivated in Pinctada margaritifera typica oyster which is only found in the pristine waters of the South Pacific around the islands of Fiji, these pearls are coveted for their beautiful, shimmering lustre and especially for their delightful rainbow of iridescent colours.
Although a relatively new entrant in the world of cultured pearls, Fijian pearls have come to be recognized as a luxury gem in the world of fine and high jewellery.
Fiji Pearls and the Pinctada margaritifera typica oyster
The Fiji pearls are saltwater pearls and come from the Pinctada margaritifera typica oyster, which is a sub-species of the Pinctada margaritifera oyster. (Tahitian pearls come from the Pinctada margaritifera cumingii, another sub-species of the Pinctada margaritifera oyster.)
The Pinctada margaritifera typica is smaller than the Tahitian pearl oyster. The exterior of the oyster shell is of a lighter, earthier colour and the oyster lip exhibits a wide range of colours, with orange being the most common. In addition, the oyster flesh and mantle tissue has a distinctive orange colour.
Geographic Origin of Fijian Pearls
The Pinctada margaritifera typica oyster is native to the waters of the South Pacific, a habitat where it thrives. The sea water is clean and nutrient rich, and the temperature is ideal for the growth of healthy oysters growth. All in all, the sea waters around Fiji provide the perfect conditions for growing beautiful Fijian pearls.
History of Pearl Farming in Fiji
Cultured Fiji pearls are bead-nucleated saltwater pearls grown in pearl farms.
Pearl farming in Fiji began in the early 1950s on an experimental basis. However, it was a decade later, in 1963, that two Japanese pearl specialists, Yasuhiro Tokito and Dr. Koji Wada, set up the first pearl farm on the island of Levuka in Fiji.
A few years later, Wada left Fiji to pursue pearl farming opportunities in French Polynesia, but Tokito stayed behind because he believed in the success and viability of cultured Fijian pearls. By 1968, the farm, which was now run by Tokito, was producing commercial grade pearls.
Several decades later, in 1999, Justin Hunter set up J. Hunter Pearls Fiji pearl farm in Savusavu Bay (which is Fiji’s second largest island). In 2003, the farm harvested its first batch of cultured Fiji pearls.
Today, there are two pearl farms in Fiji: J. Hunter Pearls and Civa Fiji Pearls (which was established in 2006).
Pearl Farming Challenges in Fiji
Pearl farming in the Fiji Islands is difficult. While the waters around the islands are clean and have low acidity levels, the islands do not have many sheltered bays and atolls where pearl farms can be easily established.
In addition, the islands lie in the path of seasonal hurricanes. These storms can cause a lot of damage to the equipment, infrastructure and oyster stock of the farms. (In March 2010, Hurricane Tomas hit northern Fiji, causing serious damage to the J. Hunter Pearls’ farm infrastructure as well as destroyed the pearl harvest for 2011.)
The islands also get a lot of rain which can affect the salinity levels of the sea waters. This, in turn, affects the availability of nutrients (phytoplankton) in the waters around the pearl farms. Nutrient depletion due to low salinity can adversely affect the health of oysters. And, it is healthy oysters that produce the most gorgeous Fijian pearls.
Faced with these challenges, the annual production of Fiji pearls is one of the lowest among the different cultured pearls. As a result, along with their beauty, it is also their rarity that makes them one of the most exclusive, luxury gems in the world.
The Colours of Fiji Pearls
One important factor that sets Fijian pearls apart from all other cultured pearls is the magnificent range of colours that are found in these saltwater pearls.
The most common body colours in Fiji pearls include the warm-toned Fiji gold, champagne gold, green gold, pistachio, copper, natural brown, bronze, burgundy, cherry and taupe. The pearls also come in a variety of cooler shades that include deep blue, light turquoise-blue, deep peacock green, silver and violet to name a few.
They also have equally alluring overtone (secondary) colours that can range from gold, green, turquoise and pure, deep blue.
The Sussex Strand
The Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle, received a stunning Fijian pearl necklace from Fiji’s First Lady, Sarote Konrote, on the royal couple’s tour of Australasia soon after their wedding.
The 18 inch “Sussex” necklace features 37 gem quality, lustrous Fiji pearls in an exquisite mix of natural colours. These colours ranged from iridescent green and shimmering bronzes to deep sea blue and steely grey.
The necklace was produced by J. Hunter Pearls and it firmly established Fijian pearls in the international jewellery world as premium, highly sought after cultured pearls.
Fiji Pearls Value Factors
Just like other cultured pearls, Fiji pearls also have several different value factors.
Lustre
Lustre, without a doubt, is the most important value factor for Fiji pearls. Highly lustrous Fiji pearls are more valuable than ones that have low lustre or appear dull.
Colour
Fiji pearls are highly prized for their gorgeous colours. Whether in warm or cool tones, the more vibrant and vivid the colour, the more valuable the Fiji pearls. This one factor gives Fijian pearls a premium place in the world of fine and high jewellery.
Size
Fiji pearls come in sizes ranging from 8mm to 15mm, with 10mm – 11mm being the average size for these pearls. However, there have been instances where larger pearls of 18mm have been harvested. Like most other pearls, larger Fijian pearls will be more valuable as compared to smaller ones.
Shape
Fijian pearls, just like their Tahitian cousins, come in a variety of shapes.
These include the following :
Round pearls that are spherically symmetrical or perfectly round in shape.
Off-round or semi-round pearls that appear to be round but are not perfectly spherical.
Semi baroque pearls that include buttons, ovals and drop-shaped (but a symmetrical drop-shape is rare and aesthetically quite attractive).
Baroque pearls (these include tokki pearls with natural bumps and knobbles attached to them as well as organic and asymmetrical shapes),
Circlé pearls (with completely natural concentric rings that appear to be etched on the surface of the pearls and that run around the pearls). Circlé Fiji pearls display bright and deep colours, making them very attractive.
Keshi pearls, which don’t have a bead nucleus and therefore grow in organic shapes. Keshi pearls are usually very small (smaller than 6mm) but have super bright lustre.
Round shapes in Fiji pearls, being rare and very attractive, will always be more valuable than off round shapes. However, baroque shaped Fiji pearls and keshi Fiji pearls are also growing in popularity.
Surface Quality
Fiji pearls with smooth, clean and blemish free surfaces is both aesthetically beautiful and will have great light reflectivity. Hence it will be more valuable than pearls with blemished surfaces (these blemishes may include pits, grooves and scratches).
Matching
As with all pearls, a good matching is important for Fijian pearls for earrings, necklaces and bracelets. The better the match, the more valuable the piece of Fiji pearl jewellery.
However, since Fiji pearls are loved for their wide range of colours, necklaces and bracelets in a mix of colours are also very popular and high in value (as seen in the Sussex strand).
Are Fiji Pearls a Good Investment?
Yes, gem quality or very high quality Fiji pearls are a good investment. There are several reasons for this:
- Fijian pearls are prized for their outstanding colours. No other saltwater cultured pearl has such a captivating multitude of natural colours. The earthy-hues, which are unique to Fijian pearls, will always be very popular but so will the cooler tones like baby-blue, indigo and deep green, to name a few.
- The annual harvest of Fijian pearls is small, making them very rare. Thus, in addition to being exceptionally attractive, the scarcity of Fiji pearls pushes up their prices in the jewellery market.
- Fijian pearls are farmed very sustainably. Saltwater cultured pearls are one of the most sustainably produced gems in the world. However, for the Fijian pearl farms, sustainable production is an organic part of their operations.
But ultimately, the true value of these pearls comes from the joy they give to the wearer.
How to Buy Authentic Fiji Pearls?
Because Fiji pearls are luxury gems, it is important to authentic Fijian pearls. Here are some tips on how to do so:
- Understand the main characteristics of Fiji pearls, especially their colours, size and shapes.
- Buy Fijian pearls directly from the pearl farms. Both J. Hunter Pearls and Civa Fiji Pearls have online shops where they sell Fijian pearl jewellery.
- Purchase Fijian pearls from reputable and trustworthy jewellers. For instance, both Assael in North America and Gellner in Europe, craft fine and high jewellery pieces with Fiji pearls.
- Ask the pearl farms for recommendations on where to buy Fijian pearl jewellery especially if you are visiting Fiji.
- Ask the pearl farms for authorised retailers of Fijian pearl jewellery near you.
- Beware of dyed Freshwater pearls being sold as Fijian pearls. Fijian pearls are renowned for their exceptional colours that interact with light in a lively way. Dyed Freshwater pearls will not have the vibrancy of colour of Fijian pearls. Some disreputable sellers may sell Tahitian pearls and call them Fijian pearls. Therefore, its best to purchase your Fijian pearl jewellery either directly from the farms, from jewellers recommended by the farms or from highly reputable jewellery brands.
- Fiji pearls that are being offered as a “steal” should be avoided at all costs. These pearls are one of the pricier cultured saltwater pearls and any too-good-to-be-true deal might just be that – too good to be true!
Fiji Pearls and Sustainability
Fijian pearls are one of the most sustainably farmed pearls. This sustainability is seen in the protection of the marine ecosystems and ocean life habitats that exist around the pearl farms.
In addition, it includes compliance with local fisheries laws and the responsible use of natural resources, both renewable as well as non-renewable.
It also includes the social and economic development through many different partnerships between the pearl farms and local communities.
At the Fijian pearl farms, sustainable production principles are woven into the day to day operations of these pearl farms.
Every step is taken to keep the waters around the pearl farms clean and thriving with marine life. For instance, oyster cleaning is done on land to avoid polluting the lagoons and the resulting waste bio-material is used as agricultural compost on the farm.
The pearl farms partner with local organizations to help with marine conservation and coral reef rehabilitation efforts around the pearl farms.
The farms also minimize mechanisation as much as possible. The goal here is to employ local labour. Workers receive training in highly skilled farm activities including spat collection, nursery care of oysters and other husbandry activities. This focus on skill-based labour development has uplifted the rural communities around the pearl farms and revitalized the local economy.
Featured Image: Selection of Multicolour Fiji Pearls, J. Hunter Pearls
